Kev Siv Tshuab Ua Duab Ntxoo Nrog Kev Tsim Khoom Siv Ntev
Hauv kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce niaj hnub no, kev xav tau ntawm cov neeg siv khoom rau cov pleev qhov muag uas siv tau ntev tseem niaj hnub loj hlob tuaj. Tej yam ua txhua hnub, huab cua hloov pauv, kev tsim cov roj ntau ntawm daim tawv muag, thiab kev coj cwj pwm kov thaj chaw qhov muag tuaj yeem ua rau cov duab ntxoov ntxoo ploj mus, sib sau ua ke, lossis ua rau tawv muag daj (sau ua ke hauv cov tawv muag daj). Yog li ntawd, thev naus laus zis tsim cov duab ntxoov ntxoo tam sim no tab tom hloov pauv sai, tsis yog tsuas yog tsim cov xim ci ntsa iab xwb, tab sis kuj tseem ua kom muaj kev sib txuas siab, kev sib txhuam tsis kam, thiab zoo nkauj uas kav ntev ntau teev. Tsab xov xwm no tham txog cov ntsiab cai ntawm kev tsim cov tshuaj pleev qhov muag thiab cov txheej txheem thev naus laus zis uas feem ntau siv los tsim cov duab ntxoov ntxoo uas siv tau ntev.
1. Qhov Kev Sib Tw Kawg ntawm Cov Duab Ntxoo Ntev
Thaj chaw ntawm daim tawv muag muaj cov yam ntxwv tshwj xeeb: daim tawv nqaij nyias nyias, hws yooj yim, thiab feem ntau tsim cov roj uas tuaj yeem yaj lossis "nqa" cov xim. Ntxiv mus, kev txav ntawm daim tawv muag thaum ntsais muag ua rau muaj kev sib txhuam ntau zaus uas ua rau cov xim pleev qhov muag txav mus los. Cov yam no xav tau cov qauv uas muaj ntau yam khoom tseem ceeb: kev nplaum siab, kev tsim cov zaj duab xis muaj zog tab sis yoog tau, kev tswj roj, thiab cov xim ruaj khov thiab faib sib npaug.
Cov teeb meem uas siv ntev ntev feem ntau tshwm sim los ntawm kev ploj zuj zus, ua rau cov khoom tawg, tawg, tawg, thiab hloov xim vim yog oxidation. Txhua yam teeb meem no yog daws los ntawm kev xaiv cov khoom siv raw, kev ua cov khoom me me, cov txheej txheem compaction, thiab lub kaw lus binder tsim tshwj xeeb.
2. Daim Ntawv Qhia Tshuaj thiab Nws Cov Nyhuv rau Kev Tiv Thaiv
Cov duab ntxoov ntxoo muaj ntau hom, xws li hmoov nias, hmoov xoob, mis, kua, thiab nplaum. Yog xav kom siv tau ntev, ob txoj hauv kev uas siv ntau tshaj plaws yog:
1. Cov hmoov nias uas siv tau ntev: siv cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke, cov tshuaj nplaum uas yaj tau/tsis yaj tau, thiab cov khoom nqus dej kom lo rau ruaj khov yam tsis hnyav.
2. Tshuaj pleev/kua uas siv tau ntev: siv cov polymer uas tsim zaj duab xis (zaj duab xis ua) uas tsim ib txheej nyias, tsis ntub dej tom qab cov kuab tshuaj ua pa tas.
Txawm li cas los xij, cov hmoov nias tseem nrov vim nws ruaj khov heev, yooj yim siv, thiab yooj yim siv txhua hnub. Yog li ntawd, cov lus sib tham hauv qab no tsom mus rau kev siv tshuab hmoov nias nrog nws cov ntsiab cai siv tau ntev, thaum tseem kov cov tswv yim rau cov mis cream / kua ua piv txwv.
3. Cov Cheebtsam Tseem Ceeb hauv Cov Qauv Siv Tau Ntev
a. Xim thiab Pearl
Cov xim muab xim, thaum cov hlaws dai (xws li mica coated nrog titanium dioxide lossis hlau oxide) tsim cov shimmer lossis satin effect. Rau kev siv ntev, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom ntseeg tau tias cov xim muaj qhov loj me sib xws thiab kev sib kis zoo kom tiv thaiv kev sib sau ua ke. Ntau lub tuam txhab tsim khoom siv cov xim kho (xws li nrog silane, dimethicone, lossis lecithin) los txhim kho hydrophobicity thiab daim tawv nqaij lo.
b. Cov Khoom Siv Sau Thiab Cov Qauv: Silica, Talc, thiab Lwm Txoj Kev Xaiv
Cov tshuaj fillers txiav txim siab qhov kev xav ntawm daim tawv nqaij, kev sib xyaw ua ke, thiab kev tswj roj. Silica thiab qee cov hmoov uas muaj qhov porous pab nqus cov sebum, txo qhov creasing. Cov tshuaj talc ib txwm muab kev nplaum zoo, tab sis cov qauv tam sim no kuj siv lwm txoj hauv kev xws li synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, lossis boron nitride rau qhov du thiab ntev.
c. Cov Khoom Siv: Lub Plawv ntawm Cov Hmoov Uas Nias
Ib qho khoom siv sib txuas yog ib yam khoom uas "kua nplaum" cov hmoov me me ua ke kom lawv tuaj yeem nias rau hauv lub lauj kaub thiab lo rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thaum siv. Rau cov khoom siv ntev, cov khoom sib txuas feem ntau yog sib xyaw ntawm:
– Cov tshuaj emollient esters (piv txwv li, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate) rau kev nplaum thiab mos.
– Cov silicones (piv txwv li dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate hauv qee lub tshuab) los txhim kho kev tiv thaiv dej thiab kev sib txhuam.
- Siv cov quav ciab me me (piv txwv li, microcrystalline quav ciab) los ua kom cov qauv ruaj khov, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov mis uas them taus nyiaj ntau.
Cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke yuav tsum sib npaug: tsawg dhau ua rau cov khoom tawg yooj yim thiab yooj yim poob, ntau dhau ua rau qhov chaw "nyuaj", nyuaj rau txhuam, lossis zoo li roj.
d. Cov Khoom Siv Ua Zaj Duab Xis thiab Cov Resin rau Kev Ruaj Khov
Hauv cov mis tshuaj zoo uas siv tau ntev, cov polymers uas tsim cov zaj duab xis yog siv los tsim ib lub network nyias nyias ntawm qhov chaw ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hauv cov hmoov nias, cov zaj duab xis tuaj yeem sib xyaw ua ke los ntawm cov kua nplaum lossis cov hmoov resin tshwj xeeb. Hauv cov kua/tshuaj pleev, cov zaj duab xis feem ntau muaj zog dua vim tias tom qab cov kuab tshuaj qhuav tas, cov txheej zaj duab xis ua rau muaj kev ruaj khov.
e. Cov Khoom Xyaw Txhawb Nqa: Cov Tshuaj Antioxidants thiab Cov Tshuaj Tiv Thaiv
Txawm hais tias cov hmoov pleev qhov muag muaj dej tsawg, cov tshuaj antioxidants (piv txwv li, tocopherols) tseem siv los tiv thaiv kev lwj hauv cov roj / esters. Cov tshuaj preservatives feem ntau pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov mis cream / kua. Kev ruaj khov ntawm cov xim kuj tau txhawb nqa los ntawm kev tswj pH (yog tias muaj cov dej) thiab kev xaiv cov xim tiv taus oxidation.
4. Kev Siv Tshuab Ua Khoom Me Me: Kev Kho Mob thiab Kev Faib Tawm
Ib qho ntawm cov thev naus laus zis tseem ceeb hauv kev siv cov duab ntxoov ntxoo ntev yog kev kho cov xim thiab cov khoom siv ntxiv rau saum npoo. Cov xim uas coated nrog silane lossis silicone feem ntau yog:
- tiv taus dej thiab roj ntau dua,
- yooj yim dua los sib tov,
- txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm "tawg" lossis cov xim tsis sib xws.
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb, cov txheej txheem milling thiab homogenization ua kom cov xim sib npaug. Kev sib kis tsis zoo ua rau cov xim tsis sib xws ntawm cov pawg thiab ua rau muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev tawg, vim tias cov xim sib sau ua ke yooj yim sib sau ua ke.
5. Theem Tsim Khoom ntawm Cov Qhov Muag Ntev Uas Siv Tau Ntev
a. Kev Ntsuas Hmoov thiab Kev Sib Tov Ua Ntej
Cov khoom siv hmoov xws li talc/lwm yam, mica, silica, pigments, thiab fillers raug ntsuas raws li tus qauv. Theem pib feem ntau yog kev sib tov hmoov ua ntej kom sib npaug zos. Kev sib tov yog ua tiav nrog lub ribbon blender lossis lub tshuab sib tov ceev ceev, nyob ntawm qhov ntau lawm.
b. Ua cov tshuaj nplaum
Cov kua nplaum no yog npaj cais. Yog tias muaj quav ciab, nws yuav yaj ntawm qhov kub uas tswj tau thiab tom qab ntawd sib xyaw nrog cov ester/silicone. Lub hom phiaj yog los tsim cov nplaum uas sib xws thiab ruaj khov, vim tias qhov sib txawv me me tuaj yeem cuam tshuam rau qhov nyuaj ntawm lub lauj kaub thiab kev ua haujlwm ntev.
c. Ua kom cov hmoov me me los yog tshuaj tsuag rau hauv hmoov
Cov khoom sib txuas ces muab ntxiv rau hauv theem hmoov ua ntu zus. Cov lag luam feem ntau siv cov txheej txheem hauv qab no:
- cov granules ntub dej kom tsim tau cov "granules" sib xws uas yooj yim nias,
- los yog txau cov tshuaj nplaum kom nws sib npaug zos thiab tsis ua rau muaj cov pob loj.
Qhov kev vam meej ntawm theem no tuaj yeem pom los ntawm cov qauv ntawm cov pawg uas "ntub tab sis qhuav" (tsis ntub), yooj yim rau kev zom, thiab tsis clump ntau dhau.
d. Rov ua dua thiab tshuaj ntsuam
Tom qab ua granulation tiav lawm, cov khoom sib tov no yuav raug rov ua dua kom tawg ua tej daim me me thiab tom qab ntawd muab tshuaj ntsuam xyuas kom paub tseeb tias cov khoom me me loj sib xws. Cov kauj ruam no yog qhov tseem ceeb heev kom tsis txhob tawg ntawm qhov chaw ntawm lub lauj kaub thiab kom paub tseeb tias cov khoom sib npaug nrog txhuam.
e. Kev nias (Kev sib zog) thiab kev kho kom qhuav
Tom qab ntawd, cov khoom no raug nias rau hauv lub lauj kaub siv lub zog tshwj xeeb. Cov kev tswj hwm suav nrog lub zog, lub sijhawm nias, thiab kev tsim pwm. Hauv cov mis uas siv tau ntev, kev nias kom raug pab:
- txo cov fallout,
- txhim kho qhov zoo ntawm lub lauj kaub,
- tswj cov nyiaj them rov qab (xim tseem pom thaum siv).
Muaj ib txhia chaw tsim khoom siv lub sijhawm "kho" (lub sijhawm so) kom cov khoom sib txuas ruaj khov thiab cov khoom ua tau zoo tshaj plaws.
6. Kev Ntsuam Xyuas Kev Ua Haujlwm Ntev: Kev Ntsuas Feem Ntau Ua
Yuav kom paub tseeb tias cov lus thov txog kev hnav ntev, cov chaw tsim khoom feem ntau khiav kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm kev kuaj hauv chaw kuaj mob thiab kev kuaj kev hnav (kev kuaj vaj huam sib luag), xws li:
- kev sim rub rau kev sib txhuam tsis kam,
- kev ntsuas sebum tsis kam lossis roj tsis kam,
– 8–12 teev kev sim hnav rau cov neeg soj ntsuam uas muaj ntau hom tawv muag,
- kev ntsuam xyuas qhov crease siv lub teeb pom kev zoo,
- kev sim poob thiab kev sim lub lauj kaub kom ntseeg tau tias cov khoom tsis tawg yooj yim thaum lub sijhawm faib tawm.
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb, kev ntsuam xyuas xim (colorimetry) siv tau los ntsuas seb qhov xim tsaus npaum li cas tom qab siv ob peb teev.
7. Cov Kev Tsim Kho Tshiab Tshaj Plaws: Cov Txheej Txheem Sib Xyaws thiab "Xauv"
Qhov kev hloov tshiab tshiab yog cov mis sib xyaw: cov hmoov nias uas zoo li hmoov tab sis muaj qhov "locking" effect ntawm cream/kua. Qhov no ua tiav los ntawm:
- kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm cov tshuaj emollients uas ua rau muaj kev xav me me,
– cov resin/zaj duab xis uas tseem tshuav rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij kom ruaj khov,
- Cov xim hydrophobic kho kom tiv taus sebum,
- thiab cov khoom siv porous rau kev tswj cov roj.
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb, kev ntim khoom kuj tseem ua lub luag haujlwm: lub lauj kaub uas txuas ruaj khov, kev tsim sab hauv uas txo qhov kev co, thiab kev nias zoo tas li yuav txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev tawg thiab poob thaum lub sijhawm xa khoom.
Kev kaw
Kev siv tshuab pleev qhov muag ntev tsis yog tsuas yog xaiv cov xim zoo xwb, tab sis kuj yog kev tsim cov qauv tsim thiab cov txheej txheem tsim khoom. Qhov tseem ceeb yog nyob rau hauv kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov xim zoo, cov khoom sib npaug, cov yeeb yaj kiab ua haujlwm zoo, thiab cov khoom sau uas tswj cov sebum yam tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam kev nplij siab. Nrog rau kev ua cov khoom me me, kev sib xyaw ua ke, thiab cov kev tswj hwm kev nias, pleev qhov muag ua tiav kev ua tau zoo ntev: xim ci, tsawg kawg creasing, thiab tiav tas li txhua hnub. Nyob rau hauv kev sib tw pleev kom zoo nkauj nce ntxiv, kev tsim kho tshiab hauv cov txheej txheem pleev ntev yuav txuas ntxiv mus, xa cov khoom xis nyob, muaj kev nyab xeeb, thiab txhim khu kev qha kom tau raws li ntau yam kev xav tau ntawm tus neeg siv.
