Mascara Ua Los Ntawm Anti-Smudge Technology
Mascara yog ib yam khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj nrov tshaj plaws vim nws tuaj yeem tsim kom muaj qhov muag pom tseeb dua, ua rau cov plaub muag zoo li ntev dua, nkhaus, thiab loj. Txawm li cas los xij, tom qab nws txoj haujlwm zoo nkauj, mascara kuj muaj qhov teeb meem loj: nws yooj yim ploj mus, sib sau ua ke, lossis "bleber" (smudge) vim yog cov roj ntawm daim tawv nqaij, hws, kua muag, thiab kev sib txhuam. Yog li ntawd, kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce txuas ntxiv tsim cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam kom tsim cov mascara ntev yam tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam kev nplij siab thaum hnav. Tsab xov xwm no tham txog cov txheej txheem tsim mascara thiab yuav ua li cas siv cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam los ntawm kev xaiv cov khoom siv mus rau kev sim zoo.
Cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam yog dab tsi?
Cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam hauv mascara yog ib txoj hauv kev tsim thiab cov txheej txheem tsim khoom uas lub hom phiaj yog ua kom cov txheej mascara nyob ruaj khov ntawm cov plaub muag, tsis yooj yim kis mus rau thaj chaw hauv qab qhov muag, tsis ploj thaum raug rau qhov dej noo, thiab tseem zoo nkauj rau ntau teev hnav. Sib piv rau lub tswv yim tiv thaiv dej uas tsom mus rau kev tiv thaiv dej, anti-smudge hais txog kev tiv thaiv roj (sebum), av noo, thiab kev sib txhuam, uas feem ntau yog cov ua rau mascara "poob" thiab ua rau daim tawv nqaij qias neeg.
Feem ntau, cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam yog tsim los ntawm kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm:
1. Cov yeeb yaj kiab muaj zog thiab yoog tau (txheej txheem qub),
2. Cov quav ciab thiab cov polymers uas tsim cov qauv txheej,
3. Cov xim sib kis tau zoo kom lawv tsis tawg lossis poob yooj yim,
4. Lub tshuab emulsion/stabilization uas ua rau cov khoom sib xws thiab ruaj khov,
5. Ua kom cov viscosity zoo dua kom yooj yim siv tab sis khov sai.
Cov Cheebtsam Tseem Ceeb hauv Kev Tsim Cov Mascara Tiv Thaiv Kev Ntshai
Ua ntej nkag mus rau hauv cov txheej txheem tsim khoom, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom nkag siab txog cov ntaub ntawv siv feem ntau:
1. Cov xim thiab cov xim zas
Cov xim tseem ceeb hauv mascara feem ntau yog carbon dub lossis hlau oxide rau cov xim dub/xim av. Hauv mascara tiv thaiv kev pleev xim, cov xim yuav tsum muaj qhov loj me ntawm cov khoom me me thiab yuav tsum sib npaug zos kom tau txiaj ntsig zoo yam tsis poob. Kev pleev xim tsis zoo tuaj yeem ua rau muaj cov khoom sib sau ua ke thiab ua rau muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev pleev xim.
2. Siv quav ciab
Cov roj hmab xws li beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin, lossis synthetic waxes pab tsim cov qauv, ntxiv ntim, thiab txhim kho kev tuav. Cov roj hmab kuj cuam tshuam rau qhov kev xav ntawm cov khoom: qhov ntau ntawm cov roj hmab, qhov txheej tawv dua, tab sis qhov tawv dhau tuaj yeem ua rau cov plaub muag hnyav.
3. Zaj duab xis qub thiab Polymer tiv thaiv Smudge
Qhov no yog lub plawv ntawm cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam. Ib zaj duab xis ua los ntawm acrylate polymer, PVP, VP/VA copolymer, lossis qee cov silicone polymers tsim ib txheej nyias uas lo rau ntawm cov plaub muag. Rau kev tiv thaiv kev txhuam, cov polymers feem ntau raug xaiv uas tiv taus roj, qhuav sai, thiab yoog tau txaus kom tiv taus kev tawg.
Qee cov mis niaj hnub siv cov polymers uas muaj cov yam ntxwv "tubing" - lawv qhwv ib ncig ntawm cov plaub muag zoo li cov raj me me. Cov thev naus laus zis no feem ntau tsis yooj yim rau kev ua qias tuaj thiab feem ntau yooj yim dua los tshem tawm nrog dej sov, txawm hais tias nws tsis yog "waterproof" ib txwm muaj.
4. Cov kuab tshuaj thiab cov hauv paus (Dej/Roj)
Mascara muaj peev xwm ua los ntawm dej, roj, lossis sib tov ua ke. Cov khoom tiv thaiv kev txhuam feem ntau siv cov emulsions ruaj khov thiab kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm cov khoom xyaw uas tsim cov zaj duab xis muaj zog thaum cov kuab tshuaj ua pa.
5. Cov khoom ua kom mos thiab cov khoom ua kom tuab
Yuav kom tswj tau qhov ruaj khov, cov tshuaj emulsifiers xws li glyceryl stearate, polysorbate, lossis lwm yam khoom xyaw raug siv raws li qhov xav tau hauv cov mis. Cov tshuaj thickeners xws li cellulose gum, xanthan gum, lossis acrylates thickener tswj qhov viscosity kom cov mascara xis nyob ntawm lub applicator thiab tsis ntws dhau.
6. Cov Khoom Ntxiv
Cov no suav nrog cov tshuaj preservatives, humectants (xws li glycerin), cov neeg sawv cev rau cov plaub muag, thiab cov khoom xyaw txhawb nqa xws li silica lossis cov fibers rau qhov ua kom ntev. Rau cov mis tiv thaiv kev smudge, cov fibers yuav tsum tau xaiv uas tiv taus kev poob.
Cov Kauj Ruam Ua Mascara Tiv Thaiv Kev Ntshai
Cov txheej txheem tsim cov mascara muaj xws li kev tswj qhov kub thiab txias, kev sib tov, thiab kev sib tov ua ntu zus. Feem ntau, cov kauj ruam hauv qab no yog siv rau hauv kev lag luam:
1. Kev Tsim Qauv thiab Cov Lus Qhia Txog Khoom
Kauj ruam pib suav nrog kev txiav txim siab lub hom phiaj: kev tiv thaiv kev pleev xim, xim, kev ci ntsa iab (glossy/matte), qhov ntim lossis qhov ua kom ntev, lub sijhawm ziab, thiab txoj kev tshem tawm. Hauv qhov no, pab pawg R&D txiav txim siab qhov sib piv ntawm cov quav ciab, cov zaj duab xis polymer, thiab cov tswv yim tiv thaiv sebum thiab noo noo.
2. Kev Npaj Theem Roj: Yaj Cov Ciab
Cov quav ciab thiab lwm yam khoom siv lipophilic raug yaj hauv lub tank cua sov raws li kev tswj hwm qhov kub thiab txias. Qhov kub yuav tsum siab txaus kom yaj cov quav ciab uas yaj tau zoo xws li carnauba, tab sis tsis txhob siab txaus kom ua puas rau cov khoom siv rhiab heev. Yuav tsum tau do tas li thoob plaws hauv cov txheej txheem kom tiv thaiv cov chaw kub thiab xyuas kom meej tias muaj qhov sib xws.
3. Kev Npaj ntawm Theem Dej: Kev yaj cov khoom ua kom tuab thiab cov khoom yaj hauv dej
Yog siv cov emulsion base, cov dej theem yuav tsum tau npaj cais. Cov thickener yuav maj mam yaj kom tsis txhob lo ua ke. Tom qab ntawd, yuav ntxiv cov humectant, preservative, lossis active ingredient uas sib haum. Qhov viscosity ntawm cov dej theem yuav cuam tshuam rau qhov ruaj khov ntawm cov emulsion thiab qhov ua tau zoo ntawm mascara.
4. Kev Tawg Xim: Tus yuam sij rau Kev Tiv Thaiv Kev Neat Smudge
Cov xim yuav tsum tau muab faib ua pawg siv cov khoom siv tsim nyog, xws li lub tshuab sib tov high-shear lossis lub tshuab zeb hlaws (nyob ntawm qhov ntau lawm). Lub hom phiaj yog rhuav tshem cov xim sib sau ua ke thiab tsim kom muaj cov khoom me me. Kev faib ua pawg zoo:
- ua kom cov xim muaj zog ntxiv,
- txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm cov ntshav txhaws,
- pab kom txheej qhuav sib npaug,
- thiab txo qhov yuav muaj cov khoom me me poob tawm uas ua rau muaj cov xim av.
Nyob rau theem no, feem ntau ntxiv cov tshuaj dispersant lossis cov neeg sawv cev ntub dej kom cov xim tuaj yeem sib xyaw nrog theem.
5. Emulsification (Yog tias Emulsion Formula)
Cov roj kub sib xyaw rau hauv cov dej (lossis rov ua dua) ntawm qhov kub thiab txias, thaum do ntawm qhov ceev kom ua tau cov emulsion ruaj khov. Cov txheej txheem emulsification yog qhov tseem ceeb rau qhov kawg: ceev dhau tuaj yeem ntes tau cua, qeeb dhau tuaj yeem ua rau cov emulsion ua pob.
Rau cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam, qhov ruaj khov ntawm emulsion yog qhov tseem ceeb heev kom ntseeg tau tias cov zaj duab xis thiab cov quav ciab tsim cov sib txuas sib xws thaum siv. Cov emulsion tsis ruaj khov tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev sib cais, kev hloov pauv viscosity, thiab kev ua haujlwm ruaj khov tsis sib xws.
6. Ntxiv Cov Yeeb Yaj Kiab Yav Dhau Los thiab Cov Khoom Siv Ua Haujlwm
Cov khoom ua zaj duab xis thiab cov polymers tiv thaiv kev txhuam tuaj yeem ntxiv rau ntawm cov theem tshwj xeeb nyob ntawm lawv cov khoom (yaj hauv dej lossis yaj hauv roj) thiab feem ntau yog qhia rau ntawm qhov kub thiab txias kom tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj. Cov neeg sawv cev rau kev kho kom zoo nkauj, cov fibers, thiab cov khoom uas muab cov teebmeem tshwj xeeb (ntim, curl, ntev) kuj raug ntxiv rau theem no.
7. Kev Tswj Xyuas Deaeration thiab Txias
Cov cua uas raug kaw tuaj yeem ua rau muaj teeb meem: zoo li ua npuas dej, tsis ruaj khov, thiab siv tsis sib xws. Yog li ntawd, kev tshem tawm cua (tshem tawm cua) yog ua los ntawm kev siv lub tshuab nqus tsev lossis cov txheej txheem sib tov uas txo qhov cua nkag. Kev txias yuav ua maj mam thaum do kom ntseeg tau tias cov quav ciab sib npaug - qhov no cuam tshuam rau lub zog ntawm zaj duab xis thiab kev tiv thaiv kev pleev xim.
8. Kev ntim khoom thiab kev teeb tsa cov ntaub so
Mascara raug muab ntim rau hauv lub raj siv lub tshuab ntim khoom uas tau ntsuas qhov viscosity ntawm cov khoom. Lwm yam tseem ceeb yog lub wiper (lub cuab yeej ntawm lub caj dab ntawm lub raj) uas tswj qhov ntau ntawm cov khoom ntawm lub spoolie. Rau cov mis tiv thaiv kev smudge, lub wiper zoo yuav pab tiv thaiv cov khoom tsis sib sau ua ke thiab sib sau ua ke, ua rau cov khoom nyias dua, qhuav sai dua, thiab tiv taus kev sib txhuam ntau dua.
Kev Ntsuas Zoo rau Cov Lus Thov Tiv Thaiv Smudge
Yuav kom cov lus thov tiv thaiv kev smudge raug lees paub, ntau qhov kev sim tau ua tiav, suav nrog:
1. Kev sim Smudge: siv rau ntawm cov plaub muag lossis ib qho substrate sim, tom qab ntawd raug rau kev sib txhuam me me, dej noo, lossis cov roj tsim. Cov txiaj ntsig raug soj ntsuam los ntawm qib ntawm kev hloov xim.
2. Kev sim hnav: cov neeg koom nrog siv mascara rau ob peb teev hauv qhov chaw tiag tiag (chav uas muaj cua txias, kev ua si sab nraum zoov, thiab lwm yam).
3. Kev sim ruaj khov: cov khoom raug khaws cia rau ntawm qhov kub sib txawv (piv txwv li 4 ° C, 25 ° C, 40 ° C) los saib xyuas kev sib cais theem, kev hloov pauv tsw, viscosity, thiab kev ua tau zoo ntawm daim ntawv thov.
4. Kev sim lub sijhawm qhuav: ntsuas seb txheej "teem" sai npaum li cas kom txo qhov kev hloov mus rau lub hau.
5. Kev kuaj kab mob me me: kom paub tseeb tias lub kaw lus khaws cia zoo vim tias thaj chaw qhov muag rhiab heev.
Cov Kev Cov nyom thiab cov qauv tshiab ntawm kev tsim kho tshiab
Kev tsim cov mascara tiv thaiv kev pleev xim tsis yog hais txog "ua kom nws muaj zog dua xwb." Muaj qhov sib npaug tseem ceeb ntawm kev ruaj khov, kev xis nyob, thiab kev yooj yim tshem tawm. Cov mis uas muaj zog dhau tuaj yeem ua rau cov plaub muag tawv thiab ua rau lawv nyuaj rau tshem tawm, uas ua rau cov plaub muag tawg. Yog li ntawd, cov qauv tshiab tsis ntev los no tau tsom mus rau:
- cov thev naus laus zis tubing uas tsis yooj yim rau smudge tab sis yooj yim tshem tawm,
- siv cov polymers uas zoo rau daim tawv nqaij dua,
- txo cov khoom xyaw uas ua rau khaus,
- thiab txoj hauv kev "huv si zoo nkauj" thaum tswj kev ua tau zoo.
Kev kaw
Kev tsim cov mascara nrog cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv kev txhuam yog kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm kev tshawb fawb txog kev tsim cov qauv, cov txheej txheem tsim khoom raug, thiab kev sim ua haujlwm zoo. Qhov tseem ceeb yog xaiv cov zaj duab xis tsim nyog, kev ruaj khov ntawm emulsion, kev sib kis zoo meej, thiab kev ua kom zoo ntawm cov quav ciab thiab viscosity los tsim cov txheej txheem muaj zog tab sis yoog tau. Nrog rau kev txhim kho thev naus laus zis no, cov neeg siv tuaj yeem txaus siab rau cov mascara uas zoo nkauj ntev dua, tsis muaj kev txhuam, thiab tseem xis nyob hnav tau txhua hnub.
Yog tias koj xav tau, kuv kuj tuaj yeem sau ib tsab xov xwm uas muaj kev txawj ntse ntxiv (nrog rau cov piv txwv ntawm cov khoom xyaw feem pua) lossis ib tsab xov xwm nrov dua rau cov blogs kev zoo nkauj.
