Kev Tsim Khoom Siv Tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj
Kev puas tsuaj rau cov plaub hau yog ib qho teeb meem uas ntau tus neeg ntsib vim yog kev raug cua sov ntau dhau (xws li siv cov hlau ncaj, cov tshuab ziab plaub hau), cov txheej txheem tshuaj lom neeg (xws li siv xim, siv tshuaj dawb, thiab siv cov plaub hau rov ua dua tshiab), kev ua qias tuaj, kev siv hluav taws xob UV, thiab kev siv txhuam plaub hau tsis raug. Cov plaub hau puas feem ntau yog cov plaub hau cuticles nce siab, cov plaub hau tawg, cov plaub hau tawg, cov plaub hau tsis du, tsis yooj yim tawg, thiab tsis zoo li qub. Yog li ntawd, qhov kev thov rau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj tseem nce ntxiv. Cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau no tsis yog tsuas yog ntxuav xwb tab sis kuj tsim los nrog cov thev naus laus zis los txo cov protein poob, kho qhov chaw ntawm cov plaub hau, thiab ua kom cov plaub hau muaj zog thiab mos dua.
Cov Ntsiab Lus Tseem Ceeb: Cov Plaub Hau thiab Cov Txheej Txheem Ua Rau Puas Tsuaj
Raws li cov qauv, cov plaub hau muaj cov cuticle (txheej sab nraud tshaj plaws), lub cortex (qhov tseem ceeb uas txiav txim siab lub zog thiab elasticity), thiab medulla (txheej nruab nrab uas tsis tas li muaj). Kev puas tsuaj feem ntau tshwm sim thaum lub cuticle raug qhib lossis tev tawm, ua rau lub cortex pom. Thaum lub cortex raug pom, dej yooj yim nkag thiab tawm, cov protein yaj, thiab cov khoom sib txuas sab hauv tsis muaj zog. Hauv qhov xwm txheej no, cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj yuav tsum ua ob txoj haujlwm tib lub sijhawm: kev ntxuav zoo tab sis maj mam, thiab kev tso cov tshuaj pleev kom zoo uas tuaj yeem lo rau cov plaub hau los muab kev tiv thaiv.
Kev Siv Tshuab Surfactant Uas Mos Mos: Lub Hauv Paus ntawm Tshuaj Zaws Plaub Hau Tiv Thaiv Kev Puas Tsuaj
Cov khoom tseem ceeb ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog cov tshuaj surfactant, uas yog cov tshuaj ntxuav uas tshem tawm cov roj thiab cov av qias neeg. Hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj, kev xaiv cov tshuaj surfactant zoo yog qhov tseem ceeb, vim tias cov tshuaj surfactant uas hnyav dhau tuaj yeem qhib cov cuticle thiab ua rau qhuav dua.
Cov thev naus laus zis niaj hnub no feem ntau siv kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm cov tshuaj anionic surfactants zoo tab sis mos dua (piv txwv li, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate lossis sodium laureth sulfate nrog lub kaw lus buffer) nrog rau amphoteric surfactants xws li cocamidopropyl betaine. Kev sib xyaw ua ke no pab tsim kom muaj cov npuas ruaj khov thiab qhov xav tias huv si, tab sis txo qhov cuam tshuam ntawm kev tshem tawm cov roj ntuj ntawm cov plaub hau thiab taub hau. Ntau cov mis kuj ntxiv cov humectants xws li glycerin lossis propylene glycol los pab tiv thaiv kev qhuav.
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb, kev kho qhov pH ntawm koj cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau (feem ntau yog 4,5–5,5) yog ib txoj kev yooj yim tab sis tseem ceeb. Qhov pH uas muaj kua qaub me ntsis pab kom cov plaub hau nyob ze ua ke, ua rau cov plaub hau du thiab ci ntsa iab dua. Nws kuj ua rau lub taub hau xis nyob dua thiab pab kom cov tshuaj cationic conditioners ua haujlwm tau zoo.
Cov Polymers Cationic thiab Silicone: Kev Siv Tshuab Ua Kom Cov Tshuaj Pleev Xim Zoo
Cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj feem ntau muaj cov khoom xyaw kho kom cov plaub hau tsis qhuav tom qab ntxuav. Qhov nyuaj: tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog cov khoom ntxuav tawm, yog li cov khoom xyaw kho yuav tsum "lo" rau cov plaub hau sai sai. Vim tias qhov chaw ntawm cov plaub hau feem ntau muaj cov nqi tsis zoo (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov plaub hau puas), cov khoom xyaw uas muaj cov nqi zoo (cationic) tuaj yeem khi tau zoo dua.
Cov polymers cationic xws li polyquaternium-10 lossis guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride feem ntau siv los ua kom cov plaub hau du thiab du, txo cov plaub hau frizz, thiab ua kom cov plaub hau yooj yim tswj. Cov polymers no kuj tseem tuaj yeem tsim ib txheej nyias uas txo cov kev sib txhuam ntawm cov plaub hau, yog li txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev tawg thaum zuag.
Cov silicones xws li dimethicone lossis amodimethicone yog cov thev naus laus zis tiv thaiv nto nrov. Amodimethicone paub txog nws lub peev xwm xaiv los lo rau cov chaw puas tsuaj tshaj plaws ntawm cov plaub hau, muab kev kho kom zoo dua hauv cov chaw xav tau tshaj plaws. Silicones tuaj yeem sau cov qhov sib txawv ntawm cuticle, ntxiv ci, thiab ua haujlwm ua cov roj nplua nyeem los txo kev sib txhuam. Txhawm rau kom ntseeg tau tias cov silicone tau sib npaug hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas muaj dej, cov thev naus laus zis emulsion / dispersion ruaj khov yog siv nrog kev pab los ntawm cov surfactants thiab polymers tshwj xeeb.
Cov Protein thiab Amino Acids: Ib Txoj Kev Kho Kom Zoo Dua
Muaj ntau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj ntxiv cov protein uas raug hydrolyzed (piv txwv li, keratin, collagen, wheat protein) thiab cov amino acid sib xyaw. Cov protein uas raug hydrolyzed muaj cov molecule me dua, ua rau lawv yooj yim cuam tshuam nrog cov plaub hau saum npoo. Ua haujlwm tau zoo, cov khoom xyaw no pab ua kom cov plaub hau muaj zog dua, txo qhov brittleness, thiab ua rau cov plaub hau "puv dua".
Txawm li cas los xij, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom nkag siab tias cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau feem ntau tsis "kho" cov plaub hau zoo li cov ntaub so ntswg uas muaj sia nyob, vim tias cov plaub hau yog ua los ntawm cov keratin tuag. Cov thev naus laus zis tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce txhim kho qhov xwm txheej ntawm qhov chaw thiab ua kom zoo dua qhov kev sib txuas ib ntus, lossis cov zaj duab xis, yog li cov plaub hau zoo li thiab xav tias noj qab haus huv dua. Txhawm rau txhim kho cov txiaj ntsig, cov protein feem ntau raug sib xyaw nrog cov polymers tsim zaj duab xis, uas tsim cov txheej tiv thaiv.
Kev Siv Tshuab Lipid thiab Ceramide: Kho Dua Cuticle "Cement"
Ntxiv rau cov protein, cov plaub hau muaj cov lipids, uas ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tswj kev ywj pheej thiab kev ua kom rov qab zoo. Kev puas tsuaj los ntawm tshuaj lom neeg thiab cua sov tuaj yeem ua rau cov lipids ntuj ploj mus, ua rau cov plaub hau yooj yim qhuav thiab tawg. Yog li ntawd, ntau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj siv txoj hauv kev "reflenishment lipid" los ntawm kev ntxiv cov roj sib xyaw, esters, lossis ceramide analogs.
Cov Ceramides thiab cov lipids zoo sib xws pab txhim kho kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov hlwb cuticle, feem ntau piv rau "cement" uas tuav cov qauv ua ke. Txawm hais tias lawv cov nyhuv hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yaug tawm tsis muaj zog npaum li cov khoom tso tseg, kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm ceramides nrog cationic polymers thiab silicones tuaj yeem txhim kho kev tso dej thiab muab cov nyhuv du thiab ntev dua.
Microencapsulation System thiab Delivery System
Ib qho thev naus laus zis uas niaj hnub siv ntau zuj zus yog microencapsulation, uas yog kev muab cov khoom xyaw nquag (piv txwv li, cov vitamins, cov roj tseem ceeb, lossis cov tshuaj tsw qab) ntim rau hauv cov polymer lossis lipid capsules. Lub hom phiaj tuaj yeem sib txawv: tiv thaiv cov khoom xyaw nquag los ntawm kev oxidation, tswj kev tso tawm thaum ntxuav plaub hau, lossis ua kom ruaj khov dua thaum khaws cia.
Lwm cov txheej txheem xa khoom suav nrog kev siv cov microemulsions los faib cov khoom xyaw lipophilic sib npaug hauv cov dej, txhim kho kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau yam tsis ua rau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau hnyav dhau. Cov thev naus laus zis no pab tsim cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas tseem sib dua tab sis muab cov teebmeem tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj, xws li cov plaub hau du thiab tsis muaj plaub hau ntswj.
Cov Txheej Txheem Tsim Khoom: Los ntawm Kev Sib Tov mus rau Kev Tswj Xyuas Zoo
Kev ua tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj tsis yog tsuas yog xaiv cov khoom xyaw zoo xwb, tab sis kuj yog cov txheej txheem tsim khoom zoo. Feem ntau, cov txheej txheem pib nrog cov dej (dej deionized) uas raug cua sov rau qhov kub tshwj xeeb kom yaj tag cov thickener thiab polymer. Cov surfactants raug ntxiv maj mam kom tsis txhob muaj npuas ntau dhau thaum sib tov.
Cov khoom xyaw ua kom zoo nkauj xws li silicone emulsions, cationic polymers, hydrolyzed proteins, thiab cov nroj tsuag extracts raug ntxiv rau ntawm qhov kub kom tsim nyog kom tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj. Kauj ruam kawg suav nrog kev kho qhov viscosity siv ntsev (piv txwv li, sodium chloride) lossis cov khoom siv thickener tshwj xeeb, ua raws li kev kho pH nrog citric acid lossis lub hauv paus nyab xeeb. Cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab cov tshuaj preservatives raug ntxiv rau ntawm qhov kub qis dua kom tswj tau qhov ruaj khov.
Kev tswj xyuas zoo suav nrog pH, viscosity, emulsion stability, centrifugation, kub (kub-txias) stability, thiab kev kuaj microbiological kom ntseeg tau tias cov khoom muaj kev nyab xeeb los ntawm kev ua qias tuaj. Tsis tas li ntawd, kev ntsuam xyuas kev ua tau zoo yog ua los ntawm kev sim sensory (mos, combability) thiab kev sim cov cuab yeej xws li ntsuas lub zog tensile ntawm cov plaub hau, kev sim ci, thiab kev tshuaj xyuas kev sib txhuam.
Kev Thov Tiv Thaiv Kev Puas Tsuaj: Kev Ntsuas Kev Ua Tau Zoo
Cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj feem ntau hais tias "txo qhov tawg," "kho cov plaub hau puas," lossis "tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj." Cov lus thov no yuav tsum tau txhawb nqa los ntawm cov ntaub ntawv sim. Piv txwv li, kev txo cov plaub hau tawg tuaj yeem sim los ntawm kev ua piv txwv rov ua kom cov plaub hau kho, tom qab ntawd piv rau qhov tswj hwm. Kev tiv thaiv cua sov tuaj yeem sim los ntawm kev muab tso rau hauv qhov kub thiab txias tshwj xeeb thiab saib xyuas kev hloov pauv ntawm lub zog lossis qhov ntxhib ntawm cov plaub hau.
Txawm li cas los xij, qhov ua tau zoo tiag tiag rau cov neeg siv khoom kuj nyob ntawm lawv txoj kev saib xyuas tag nrho: zaus ntxuav plaub hau, dej nyob rau hauv, siv tshuaj pleev plaub hau, thiab kev kho kom zoo nkauj. Cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws thaum ua ke nrog tshuaj pleev plaub hau lossis daim npog plaub hau, vim tias qhov tom kawg feem ntau muaj cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau ntau dua.
Yav Tom Ntej: Mos dua, Ntse dua, thiab Muaj Kev Ruaj Ntseg Dua
Cov kev tsim kho tshiab hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj tab tom hloov mus rau cov mis tshwj xeeb uas tsis muaj sulfate, kev siv cov khoom xyaw uas lwj tau, thiab kev txo cov silicones uas nyuaj rau lwj - thaum tseem tswj tau qhov ua tau zoo. Kev tshawb fawb kuj tseem tab tom tsim rau hauv cov peptides tshwj xeeb, cov thev naus laus zis tsim kev sib txuas (ua kom cov kev sib txuas hauv cov plaub hau muaj zog), thiab cov txheej txheem xa khoom xaiv ntau dua rau cov chaw puas tsuaj tshaj plaws ntawm cov plaub hau.
Thaum kawg, cov thev naus laus zis tom qab cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj yog kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm kev tshawb fawb surfactant, polymers, cov khoom siv chemistry, thiab kev tsim cov txheej txheem. Lub hom phiaj tsis yog tsuas yog ntxuav cov plaub hau xwb, tab sis kuj tseem txo qhov brittleness, txhim kho qhov zoo li ntawm qhov chaw, txhim kho kev nplij siab ntawm kev sib tsoo, thiab pab kom cov plaub hau zoo li noj qab haus huv dua. Nrog rau cov mis zoo thiab kev tswj hwm zoo, cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj tuaj yeem yog thawj kauj ruam zoo hauv kev saib xyuas plaub hau niaj hnub no.
Yog tias koj xav tau, kuv kuj tuaj yeem tsim ib qho version uas muaj kev txawj ntse dua ntawm tsab xov xwm (nrog rau cov piv txwv ntawm cov mis sib xyaw thiab cov theem tsim khoom ntxaws ntxaws), lossis ib qho version nrov dua rau cov neeg nyeem dav dav.
