Sabuwar Fasaha a Maganin Gashi Don Magance Lalacewar Gashi
Lalacewar gashi mai tsanani ba wai kawai rabuwar kai ba ce. Yana iya bayyana a matsayin karyewar tsakiyar shaft, laushi mai kauri, kamar bambaro, rikicewar kai mai tsanani, asarar haske, har ma da jin "mikewa" lokacin da aka jike saboda raunin haɗin ciki. Dalilan sun bambanta: bleaching akai-akai, rini na gashi, kayan aiki masu zafi (masu daidaita gashi, matse gashi, na'urorin busar da gashi mai zafi), fallasa UV da gurɓataccen iska, ruwan tafkin da aka yi amfani da chlorine, da gogayya ta injiniya daga tsefe, tawul, ko ɗaure gashi mai tsauri. A tsakanin buƙatar gyara da sauri da sauƙi, serums na gashi sun samo asali daga "masu haɓaka haske" kawai zuwa samfuran fasaha masu tasowa waɗanda ke mai da hankali kan lalacewa har zuwa matakin tsari. Wannan labarin yana bincika sabuwar fasaha da ake amfani da ita yanzu a cikin serums na gashi don magance mummunan lalacewa - daga kimiyyar haɗa gashi zuwa tsarin isar da sinadarai masu inganci.
1) Daga kayan kwalliyar saman zuwa gyare-gyaren da aka yi da haɗin kai
Gashi galibi yana ƙunshe da keratin. Lokacin da gashi ke fuskantar tsauraran matakan sinadarai kamar bleaching ko miƙewa, wasu daga cikin haɗin cikinsa - gami da haɗin disulfide - na iya lalacewa. Fasahar haɗa gashi tana ɗaya daga cikin manyan ci gaba na 'yan shekarun nan kuma yanzu ana amfani da ita a cikin serums na barin gashi. Ka'idar: amfani da takamaiman ƙwayoyin halitta don taimakawa wajen ƙarfafawa ko "haɗa" hanyoyin haɗin gwiwa da suka raunana, yana barin gashi ya fi ƙarfi, ba shi da saurin karyewa, kuma ya fi laushi.
A cikin mayukan gyaran gashi na zamani, yawanci ana haɗa haɗin kai da polymers masu samar da fim waɗanda ke samar da wani tsari mai sassauci na kariya. Sakamakon ba wai kawai santsi na ɗan lokaci ba ne, har ma da rage gogayya da kariya daga ƙarin lalacewa yayin salo. Duk da cewa ba ya "gyara" gashi a zahiri, ana ba da rahoton cewa wannan fasaha tana ƙara juriyar gashi ga zagayowar damuwa ta gaba, musamman idan aka yi amfani da ita akai-akai bayan an yi amfani da ita a shamfu.
2) Peptides da furotin da aka yi niyya: cike da ƙarfafa wuraren da suka lalace
Duk da cewa tsofaffin tsararraki sun dogara ne da manyan furotin waɗanda wani lokacin ke ƙara tauri ga gashi, sabbin sinadarai suna amfani da peptides (ƙananan gutsuttsuran furotin) da kuma sunadaran da aka samar da hydrolyzed tare da nauyin kwayoyin halitta da aka sarrafa. Ƙaramin girmansu yana taimaka wa waɗannan sinadaran su manne da ƙusa daidai gwargwado kuma su yi mu'amala da gashin da ke da ramuka.
Baya ga keratin da aka yi wa hydrolyzed, serums da yawa suna haɗa da peptides "bioactive" waɗanda aka tsara don inganta haɗin zare na gashi da rage porosity. Tare da mummunan lalacewa, yawan porosity yana sa gashi ya rasa ruwa da sauri kuma ya zama skizzy. Peptides da furotin da suka fashe suna taimakawa wajen rage wannan "zubar," suna sa gashi ya ji da yawa, ya fi sauƙi a sarrafa shi, kuma ya rage skizzy.
Mabuɗin shine daidaito: yawan furotin na iya sa wasu gashi (musamman busassun gashi) su ji tauri. Saboda haka, serums na zamani galibi suna haɗa furotin/peptides tare da humectants da emollients don kiyaye sassauci.
3) Ceramide, hadaddun lipid, da fasahar "sake-lipidation"
Lalacewa mai tsanani ba wai kawai matsalar keratin ba ce; layin lipid na gashi yana raguwa sosai ta hanyar surfactants masu ƙarfi, zafi, fallasa UV, da sinadarai. Lipids suna aiki a matsayin "siminti" tsakanin sikelin cuticle kuma suna aiki a matsayin shinge don hana asarar ruwa. Saboda haka, sabuwar fasahar da ke cikin serums na gashi galibi tana kwaikwayon hanyar kula da fata: dawo da kitsen kariya ta hanyar musamman ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, da mai.
Ceramides (misali, Ceramide NP) suna taimakawa wajen ƙarfafa haɗin cuticle, rage ƙaiƙayi, da kuma haɓaka bayyanar sheƙi. Wasu serums suna haɗa ceramides tare da lipid analog 18-MEA (wani abu na halitta na saman gashi wanda galibi ana ɓacewa ta hanyar bleaching) ko kuma suna amfani da esters masu sauƙi waɗanda ke kwaikwayon "zamewar gashi ta halitta." Wannan zai iya taimakawa gashi mai rauni ya ji "slipper" ba tare da jin rauni ba, musamman lokacin da dabarar ta yi amfani da emollients masu canzawa ko busasshen mai.
4) Silikon zamani da tsarin hana gogayya mai "sauƙi"
Silikon sun daɗe suna zama ginshiƙin gyaran gashi saboda iyawarsu ta rage gogayya, santsi, da kuma ƙara sheƙi. Amma sabbin hanyoyin suna komawa ga silikon masu wayo: masu sauƙi, masu jure zafi, kuma masu sauƙin wankewa, yayin da har yanzu suna ba da kariya.
Misalan sun haɗa da haɗakar silicones masu canzawa don jin sauƙi, tare da silicones masu aiki (kamar amodimethicone a wasu tsarin) waɗanda ke mannewa a wuraren da suka fi lalacewa. Wannan hanyar "zaɓi" tana da mahimmanci ga mummunan lalacewa: serum ɗin zai manne fiye da wuraren da suka lalace da kuma waɗanda suka karye, maimakon taruwa a wurare masu lafiya. Sakamakon shine gashi mai santsi, mai kariya ba tare da ya yi laushi ko nauyi ba.
Baya ga silicone, fasahar zamani ta cationic polymer da fasahar fim suma suna aiki a matsayin "masu hana gogayya." Suna rage gogayya tsakanin zare yayin tsefewa - wani abu da ke haifar da karyewar gashi mai rauni, musamman lokacin da ya jike.
5) Kariyar zafi da aka yi da polymer da kuma "kariyar zafi"
Lalacewar da ta yi tsanani sau da yawa tana ƙara ta'azzara ta hanyar miƙewa ko busar da iska. Saboda haka, sabbin serums kusan koyaushe suna da'awar kariya daga zafi, amma yanzu an fi auna tsarin. Wasu formulations suna amfani da polymers waɗanda ke samar da sirara mai jure zafi, wanda ke taimakawa wajen rarraba zafi daidai gwargwado da rage wuraren zafi da ke lalata cuticle.
Akwai kuma hanyar "maganin zafi", wadda ta haɗa silicones masu jure zafi, wasu sunadaran da aka yi wa hydrolyzed, da polymers masu samar da fim don tsayayya da bushewar jiki kwatsam lokacin da aka fallasa su ga yanayin zafi mai yawa. Duk da cewa maganin zamani mai kare zafi ba ya sa gashi ya jure zafi, suna iya rage karyewa da rashin ƙarfi wanda galibi yakan faru bayan an maimaita salo.
6) Magungunan hana tsufa da gurɓatawa/kariya daga hasken rana (UV): suna hana sake faruwar lalacewa
Lalacewa mai tsanani sau da yawa tana taruwa. Don haka, baya ga gyarawa, magungunan zamani suna ƙara "tsarin kariya" daga abubuwan da ke haifar da damuwa na yau da kullun. Ana amfani da antioxidants kamar bitamin E, abubuwan da suka samo asali daga bitamin C, niacinamide, ruwan shayi mai kore, ko resveratrol don magance radicals masu kyauta waɗanda UV da gurɓatawa ke haifarwa.
Kariyar UV ga gashi kuma tana samun karbuwa. Wasu sinadarai sun haɗa da matattarar UV ta musamman ga gashi ko polymers waɗanda ke taimakawa rage shuɗewar launi. Wannan yana da mahimmanci ga gashi mai launin blush da launi: lalacewar cuticle yana sa pigment ya ɓace da sauri, don haka kariyar UV da antioxidants suna taimakawa wajen kiyaye launi yayin da kuma yaƙi da bushewa.
7) Tsarin isar da sinadaran aiki: liposomes, microemulsions, da encapsulation
Ɗaya daga cikin ci gaba mafi ban sha'awa shine fasahar tsarin isar da sako. A cikin maganin zamani, ana iya "kunshe" sinadaran aiki a cikin liposomes, microemulsions, ko wasu nau'ikan da aka lulluɓe don sa su zama masu karko da kuma rarrabawa daidai gwargwado a cikin gashin. Manufar ba shine a ratsa follicle ba (maganin lalacewar da ke da matuƙar muhimmanci yana mai da hankali kan gashin), amma a maimakon haka a tabbatar da cewa sinadaran aiki sun manne da wuraren da ake buƙata kuma suna aiki akai-akai.
Wannan fasaha kuma tana ba da damar amfani da sinadarai masu laushi (kamar wasu antioxidants) don hana iskar shaka cikin sauri. Ga masu amfani, ana ganin tasirin a cikin aiki mai daidaito: gashi mai laushi, mai sauƙin sarrafawa, da sakamako mai ɗorewa koda kuwa ba a yi amfani da samfurin sosai ba.
8) Tsarin "Haɗaɗɗen": magani + kwandishan da aka bar + abin rufe fuska mai haske
Layukan da ke tsakanin maganin serum, maganin barin gida, da magani suna ƙara duhu. Sabbin kayayyaki galibi ana tsara su ne a matsayin haɗaka: laushin serum amma tare da na'urar sanyaya iska, cire gashi, hana bushewa, kariyar zafi, da ayyukan haɗin kai duk a mataki ɗaya. Wannan yana magance buƙatun masu amfani da gashi masu rauni sosai waɗanda galibi suna buƙatar shimfida samfura da yawa.
Wasu sabbin abubuwa kuma suna haifar da sinadarin serums waɗanda za a iya amfani da su a kan gashi mai ɗanshi da bushewa, tare da ikon gina yadudduka a hankali ba tare da haifar da tarin abubuwa masu yawa ba. Ana samun wannan ta hanyar zaɓar abubuwan da ke rage nauyi, polymers masu sauƙin warwatsewa, da ƙarin tsarin silicone masu iyakance kansu.
Yadda ake zaɓar magani don mummunan lalacewa
Da yake akwai fasahohi da yawa, zaɓar man shafawa na iya zama da rikitarwa. Ga gashin da ya yi rauni sosai, mai da hankali kan waɗannan haɗin:
1. Haɗawa/gyara + hana gogayya: nemi da'awar ƙarfafa haɗin gwiwa da kayan da aka yi da fim waɗanda ke kare shi daga gogayya.
2. Lipid/ceramide: ya dace da gashi mai launin blush da bushewa sosai.
3. Kariyar zafi: dole ne idan kuna yin salo mai zafi akai-akai.
4. Tsarin gashi bisa ga porosity: gashi mai laushi yawanci ya dace da serums masu sauƙi; gashi mai kauri/mara nauyi, wanda ya lalace sau da yawa yana buƙatar ƙarin abubuwan ƙarfafa gashi.
Amfani Mai Inganci: A shafa ɗan ƙaramin adadin a kan gashi mai ɗan busasshe, a mai da hankali daga tsayin matsakaici zuwa ƙarshe. Ga gashi mai rauni sosai, yin amfani da shi akai-akai bayan an yi shamfu ya fi tasiri fiye da yawan da aka yi a lokaci guda. Idan gashi yana da saurin yin mai, a guji tushen kuma a iyakance adadin da ake amfani da shi.
Penutup
Fasahar serum ta gashi ta yi nisa sosai: daga kawai inganta haske zuwa samar da mafita mai fuskoki da yawa don mummunan lalacewa. Haɗawa, peptides masu niyya, dawo da lipids kamar ceramides, silicones na gaba, kariyar zafi, antioxidants, har ma da tsarin rufewa yana ba da damar serums na zamani su kai hari ga lalacewa daga kusurwoyi da yawa - suna ƙarfafawa, karewa, da inganta kamanni a lokaci guda. Duk da cewa babu wani samfuri da zai iya "farfado" da gashi gaba ɗaya da ya karye, haɗakar sabuwar fasaha da aikace-aikacen da ya dace na iya rage karyewa, frizz, da rashin ƙarfi sosai, yana taimaka wa gashi ya yi kyau, ya fi laushi, kuma ya fi sauƙin sarrafawa.
