Kirkire-kirkire wajen yin lipstick mai laushi da sinadaran Vegan
Yanayin kyau na duniya yana ci gaba da tafiya zuwa ga zaɓuɓɓuka masu kyau, aminci, da dorewa. A tsakanin karuwar wayar da kan masu amfani game da batutuwan muhalli, jin daɗin dabbobi, da lafiyar fata, lipstick mai launin vegan ya fito a matsayin ɗaya daga cikin sabbin abubuwa da ake nema. Kalubalen ba abu ne mai sauƙi ba: lipstick mai launin matte suna da alaƙa da kammala mai kyau, mai ɗorewa, kuma mai jure wa canja wuri, amma galibi suna jin bushewa a lebe. Idan aka guji sinadaran gargajiya kamar kakin zuma, carmine, ko lanolin, dole ne masana'antun su nemo sabbin dabarun da za su kasance masu daɗi da aiki mai kyau. Ƙirƙirar samar da lipstick mai launin matte na vegan kuma yana ci gaba da haɓaka cikin sauri, daga zaɓin kakin zuma na tushen tsire-tsire da launuka marasa dabbobi zuwa fasahar ɓoyewa don kiyaye danshi.
Me yasa ake ƙara neman fenti mai laushi na vegan?
A zahiri, lipstick na vegan yana nufin ba ya ƙunshe da wani sinadari da aka samo daga dabbobi ko abubuwan da suka samo asali. Duk da cewa "vegan" ba lallai bane yana nufin "ba shi da mugunta," kamfanoni da yawa sun haɗa biyun: babu sinadaran dabbobi da babu gwajin dabbobi. Masu amfani da shi a yau suna ƙara bincika lakabin kuma suna neman bayyana gaskiya a cikin sarkar samar da kayansu.
A gefe guda kuma, kammalawar matte ya kasance abin da aka fi so saboda suna haifar da kyakkyawan ra'ayi, mai kyau, da ƙarfin hali. Duk da haka, don ƙirƙirar gamawar matte mai ɗorewa, dabarun yawanci suna buƙatar mannewa, kayan fim, da tsarin kakin mai mai ƙarfi. Ana samun sabbin kirkire-kirkire don magance buƙatun aiki da ɗabi'a.
Babban ƙalubale: maye gurbin sinadaran gargajiya marasa cin ganyayyaki
Wasu daga cikin sinadaran da ake amfani da su wajen shafa lipsticks na gargajiya sun hada da:
1. Kakin zuma: yana samar da tsari, yana hana samfurin narkewa cikin sauƙi kuma yana taimakawa wajen samun kwanciyar hankali.
2. Carmine (CI 75470): launin ja daga kwarin cochineal, wanda aka san shi da launin ja mai ƙarfi.
3. Lanolin: wani sinadari ne da ke taimakawa wajen laushin lebe.
4. Collagen ko elastin (abin da aka samo daga dabbobi): wani lokacin ana amfani da shi don da'awar kula da lebe.
Sauya waɗannan sinadaran ba wai kawai maye gurbin "1:1" ba ne. Misali, kakin zuma yana da yanayi na narkewa da kuma ƙarfinsa, yayin da kakin kayan lambu na iya zama mai rauni ko kuma ya yi tauri sosai. Carmine yana ba da launi mai kyau da kwanciyar hankali, yayin da wasu launukan ma'adinai ko na roba ke buƙatar sarrafawa don kiyaye jin "mai nauyi" da kuma tsayayya da shuɗewa.
Sabuwar kakin zuma ta kayan lambu: tsarin matte ba tare da kakin zuma ba
Ɗaya daga cikin mabuɗin yin lipstick mai laushi shine tsarin sanda mai ɗorewa da kwanciyar hankali. Ƙirƙirar dabarun vegan ya dogara sosai kan haɗa nau'ikan kakin zuma daban-daban na tsire-tsire don kwaikwayon halayen kakin zuma:
– Kakin Candelilla: yana ba da haske mai haske da kuma laushi mai ƙarfi; galibi ana amfani da shi azaman madadin kakin zuma, amma amfani da shi fiye da kima na iya jin kamar an yi masa aiki.
– Kakin Carnauba: yana da tauri sosai kuma yana da zafi sosai, yana taimakawa wajen kiyaye siffa a yanayin zafi, amma yana buƙatar daidaitawa don kada ya sa lipstick ya yi tauri sosai.
– Kakin shinkafa: yana ƙara laushi kuma yana taimakawa wajen zamewa.
– Kakin Sunflower da kakin Berry: suna samun karbuwa saboda yanayinsu mai laushi, mai kama da fata.
Sabbin abubuwa na zamani ba wai kawai suna zaɓar kakin zuma ɗaya ba ne, har ma suna ƙirƙirar tsarin kakin zuma mai rikitarwa: haɗin kakin zuma mai tauri don kwanciyar hankali da kuma kakin zuma mai sassauƙa don jin daɗi. Wannan hanyar tana ba da damar fenti mai laushi na vegan su kasance masu tauri, masu juriya ga karyewa, kuma masu sauƙin shafawa.
Babban launin vegan mai aiki: madadin carmine mai launi mai ƙarfi
Domin ƙirƙirar cikakken launi mai matte, ana buƙatar launuka masu ƙarfi da kwanciyar hankali akan haske da iskar shaka. Madadin vegan da aka saba amfani da su sun haɗa da:
– Iron oxides (iron oxides): gama gari ne ga launukan ja, launin ruwan kasa, da kuma launuka masu dumi.
– Titanium dioxide: yana taimakawa wajen haskakawa da ƙara haske (kodayake ana tsara amfani da shi a wasu samfura sosai a wasu yankuna).
– Ultramarines da chromium oxides: don wasu bambance-bambancen launi.
– Rinuwan roba da aka amince da su bisa ƙa'ida: suna samar da launuka masu haske, musamman wasu ruwan hoda ko ja.
Babban sabon abu a fannin fenti shine dabarun gyaran saman, kamar amfani da esters na silica ko na kayan lambu, don sanya launuka su zama masu sauƙin warwatse a cikin mai, hana taruwa, da kuma samar da yanayi mai santsi. Masu tsarawa kuma suna amfani da dabarun niƙa don rage girman barbashi, wanda ke haifar da daidaito da ƙarancin tabo.
Fim ɗin Vegan na zamani don dorewa da kuma hana canja wuri
Launuka masu laushi masu ɗorewa gabaɗaya suna buƙatar abubuwan da ke samar da fim waɗanda ke ƙirƙirar sirara mai "kulle" launin. A cikin ƙirƙirar vegan, wasu hanyoyin sun haɗa da:
– Sinadaran roba masu aminci da aka amince da su: wasu polymers na zamani ana yin su ne ba tare da sinadaran dabbobi ba kuma suna iya ƙara juriya da rage canja wuri.
– Resin kayan lambu ko kuma abin da aka samo daga cellulose: yana taimakawa wajen manne lebe kuma yana samar da ingantaccen tasirin matte.
– Tsarin mai mai canzawa (misali isododecane ga wasu dabaru): yana ƙafewa bayan an shafa shi, yana barin launi da fim ɗin da ya fi dacewa.
Mabuɗin shine a daidaita juriya da jin daɗi. Yawan fim ɗin zai iya sa lebe su ji matse ko kuma su ƙara haske a kan lebe. Sabbin dabarun zamani yanzu suna mai da hankali kan fina-finai masu sassauƙa waɗanda ke tsayayya da fashewa.
Tasirin matte mai daɗi: ƙirƙirar abubuwan ƙarfafawa da man shanu na kayan lambu
Babban korafin da ake yi game da matte lipsticks shine bushewar fata. Domin magance wannan ba tare da yin watsi da matte gama ba, sinadaran vegan sun dogara ne akan abubuwa masu laushi amma masu gina jiki, kamar:
– Man Jojoba (a zahiri man ester ne na kakin zuma): tsayayye kuma yana jin haske.
– Squalane daga rake ko zaitun: yana ba da laushi ba tare da mai mai yawa ba.
– Man iri na Meadowfoam: an san shi da tsayayye kuma yana taimakawa wajen laushin yanayi.
– Man shanu na shea, man shanu na mangwaro, man koko: suna samar da abinci mai gina jiki, amma suna buƙatar isasshen adadin da za a iya amfani da shi don kada sakamakon ƙarshe ya yi sheƙi sosai.
Wani sabon abu kuma shi ne amfani da foda mai sha kamar silica, kaolin, ko foda sitaci da aka gyara don "sha" mai sheƙi, yana kiyaye ƙarshen matte ba tare da jin matsewa a lebe ba. Haɗin da ya dace na abubuwan da ke ƙara haske da foda yana ba da damar samun ƙarin matte mai laushi maimakon busasshiyar ƙarewa.
Rufewa da ƙananan tsari: riƙe danshi ba tare da lalata juriya ba
Wasu sabbin dabaru suna amfani da manufar rufe sinadaran aiki. Misali, wasu sinadarai masu sanyaya iska ko kuma masu sanyaya iska suna cikin ƙananan ƙwayoyin cuta waɗanda ke fitar da danshi a hankali. Wannan yana bawa lebe damar jin daɗi a duk tsawon yini ba tare da sanya saman lipstick ya zame ba.
Bugu da ƙari, ƙirƙirar ƙananan tsarin yana faruwa ne ta hanyar da kakin zuma da mai ke samar da hanyoyin sadarwa na lu'ulu'u. Daidaita hanyoyin dumama, sanyaya, da juyawa na iya canza siffar lu'ulu'un kakin, wanda a ƙarshe ke shafar:
- ƙarfin sanda (ba shi da sauƙin karyewa),
- jin zafi (ba a jawo shi ba),
- bayyanar matte (mai santsi),
- kwanciyar hankali na launi (ba ya "yi fure" ko haifar da tabo cikin sauƙi).
Bangarorin dorewa: daga kayan aiki zuwa marufi
Cin ganyayyaki sau da yawa yana tafiya tare da ra'ayoyi masu kyau ga muhalli. Yawancin masana'antun suna ƙirƙira sabbin abubuwa a cikin:
- tushen mai na kayan lambu mai dorewa (misali guje wa sinadaran da ke da alaƙa da sare dazuzzuka),
- amfani da kayan gida don rage sawun carbon,
- marufi mai sake cikawa ko filastik mai sake yin amfani da shi,
– rage ƙwayoyin cuta ta hanyar maye gurbin wasu ƙwayoyin cuta da ma'adanai na halitta ko polysaccharides.
Duk da haka, dorewa ba koyaushe take da sauƙi ba. Misali, wasu sinadaran da ake amfani da su a cikin shuke-shuke suna buƙatar amfani da ƙasa sosai, yayin da wasu sinadaran roba sun fi inganci da kwanciyar hankali. Saboda haka, ƙirƙira a cikin masana'antar ba wai kawai batun "na halitta ko na roba ba ne," a'a batun zaɓar sinadaran da suka fi aminci, mafi inganci, kuma mafi alhaki bisa ga bayanai.
Gwajin inganci da gwajin aiki: sabon ma'auni na lipsticks masu launin vegan
Domin man shafawa mai laushi na vegan ya zama mai gasa, masana'antun suna yin gwaji mai tsauri, kamar:
- gwajin daidaiton zafin jiki (zafi-sanyi),
- gwajin "biya" (yadda launin zai fito daidai lokacin da aka yi amfani da shi),
- gwajin canja wuri da kuma juriya ga abinci da abin sha,
- gwajin hadawan abu da iskar shaka a launi,
- gwajin lafiyar fata (gami da yiwuwar ƙaiƙayi).
Ana kuma samun sabbin kirkire-kirkire a hanyoyin gwaji: ƙarin kamfanoni suna amfani da hanyoyin kimanta kayan aiki da kuma bangarorin masu amfani don rage gwaji da kurakurai yayin haɓakawa.
Penutup
Kirkirar lipstick mai laushi ga masu cin ganyayyaki ba wai kawai game da maye gurbin kakin zuma ko kawar da carmine ba ne. Tsarin injiniyanci ne mai rikitarwa: gina tsarin sanda daga kakin zuma na tsire-tsire, tabbatar da launuka masu ƙarfi na vegan, ƙirƙirar fim mai ɗorewa amma mai sassauƙa, da kuma kiyaye jin daɗin lebe ta hanyar amfani da kayan shafawa masu wayo da fasahar microstructural. A lokaci guda, dorewa da gaskiya suna ƙara zama muhimman abubuwan da ke haifar da zaɓin masu amfani.
A nan gaba, lipsticks masu launin vegan za su ci gaba da bunƙasa tare da sabbin fasahohin sinadarai, marufi masu kyau ga muhalli, da kuma ƙa'idodin aiki waɗanda suka yi daidai da - har ma sun wuce - samfuran gargajiya. Ga masu amfani, wannan yana nufin ƙarin zaɓuɓɓukan lipstick masu launin matte waɗanda ba wai kawai suna da kyau a lebe ba, har ma sun dace da ɗabi'un ɗabi'a da kulawa ga duniya.
