Tekinoroji yekugadzira mimvuri nekugadzirwa kwenguva refu
Muindasitiri yezvinozora, kudiwa kwezvizoro zvemaziso zvinogara kwenguva refu kuri kuramba kuchikura. Mabasa ezuva nezuva ane zvakawanda zvekuita, kuchinja kwemamiriro ekunze, kugadzirwa kwe sebum pamaziso, uye tsika yekubata nzvimbo yemaziso zvinogona kukonzera kuti eyeshadow ipere, iungane, kana kuti iungane (mumakomba emaziso). Saka, tekinoroji yekugadzira eyeshadow iri kuchinja nekukurumidza, kwete kungoburitsa ruvara rwakasimba chete, asiwo kuve nechokwadi chekunamatira kwakanyanya, kuramba kukweshana, uye chitarisiko chakanaka chinogara kwemaawa. Chinyorwa chino chinokurukura misimboti yekugadzira uye maitiro etekinoroji anowanzoshandiswa kugadzira eyeshadow ine kushanda kwenguva refu.
1. Dambudziko Guru reKupfeka Maziso Marefu
Nzvimbo yemaziso ine hunhu hwakasiyana: ganda rakatetepa, rinodikitira zviri nyore, uye rinowanzo gadzira mafuta anogona kunyungudutsa kana "kusimudza" pigment. Uyezve, kufamba kwemaziso kana achibwaira kunokonzera kukweshana kunodzokororwa kunomanikidza zvidimbu zvemumvuri wemaziso kuti zvifambe. Zvinhu izvi zvinoda mafomura ane hunhu hwakawanda: kunamira kwakanyanya, kuumbwa kwefirimu kwakasimba asi kunochinjika, kudzora mafuta, uye zvidimbu zvepigment zvakagadzikana uye zvakaenzana.
Kusashanda zvakanaka kwenguva refu kunowanzoonekwa sekunge kunopera, kutsemuka, kudonha, uye kusviba kweruvara nekuda kwe oxidation. Dambudziko rega rega rinogadziriswa kuburikidza nekusarudzwa kwezvinhu zvisina kugadzirwa, kugadzirisa zvidimbu, matekiniki ekumanikidza, uye sisitimu yekugadzira zvinhu yakagadzirwa zvakanaka.
2. Fomu reMuyero uye Mhedzisiro Yayo paKuramba Kurapwa
Eyeshadow inouya nenzira dzakasiyana-siyana, dzakadai sehupfu hwakadzvanywa, hupfu hwakachena, kirimu, mvura, uye chimuti. Kune dzinopfekwa kwenguva refu, nzira mbiri dzakajairika ndeidzi:
1. Upfu hwakadzvanywa kwenguva refu: hunoshandiswa nemusanganiswa wezvinobatanidza, zvinonyungudutsa/zvisinganyungudike, uye zvinonyungudutsa zvinonamira zvakasimba pasina kurema.
2. Kirimu/mvura inopfekwa kwenguva refu: inoshandisa polymer inogadzira firimu (yakagadzirwa nefirimu) iyo inoumba jira rakatetepa, risingapindi mvura mushure mekunge solvent yapera.
Kunyange zvakadaro, upfu hwakadzvanywa huchiri kufarirwa nekuda kwekugadzikana kwahwo kwakanyanya, nyore kushandisa, uye hushamwari hwayo pakushandiswa kwezuva nezuva. Nokudaro, hurukuro inotevera inotarisa patekinoroji yeupfu hwakadzvanywa nemisimboti yahwo yekupfekwa kwenguva refu, ukuwo ichitarisawo nzira dzekushandisa cream/liquid formulas sekuenzanisa.
3. Zvikamu Zvikuru muMafomu eKupfeka Kwenguva Refu
a. Pigment nePearl
Pigment dzinopa ruvara, nepo maparera (akadai semica yakafukidzwa netitanium dioxide kana iron oxide) achigadzira shimmer kana satin effect. Kuti igare kwenguva refu, zvakakosha kuve nechokwadi chekuti pigment ine saizi yakafanana uye kupararira kwakanaka kudzivirira kuungana. Vagadziri vazhinji vanoshandisa pigment dzakagadziriswa (dzakadai se silane, dimethicone, kana lecithin) kuti dzivandudze hydrophobicity uye kunamira kweganda.
b. Zvizoro uye Magadzirirwo: Silica, Talc, uye Zvimwe Zvinotsiva
Zvishandiso zvinoona kunzwika kweganda, kugona kusanganisa, uye kudzora mafuta. Silica nemamwe maporous powders anobatsira kunwisa sebum, zvichideredza kuzvimba. Talc yechinyakare inopa kutsvedza kwakanaka, asi mafashoni aripo anoshandisawo dzimwe nzira dzakadai se synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, kana boron nitride kuti iite zvakanaka uye inogara kwenguva refu.
c. Chinosunga: Mwoyo weUpfu hwakadzvanywa
Chinosunga chinhu chinonamira pamwe chete zvidimbu zveupfu kuitira kuti zvikwanise kudzvanywa mupani zvonamira paganda panguva yekuisa. Kune zvigadzirwa zvinogara kwenguva refu, chinobatanidza chinowanzova musanganiswa we:
– Ma esters ekunamisa (semuenzaniso, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate) ekunamira uye kupfava.
– Silicones (semuenzaniso dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate mune mamwe masisitimu) yekuvandudza kudzivirira kwemvura nekukweshana.
– Wakisi muhuwandu hushoma (semuenzaniso wakisi ye microcrystalline) kusimbisa chimiro, kunyanya mumafomula ane muripo wakawanda.
Musanganiswa webinder unofanira kunge wakaenzana: mushoma kwazvo unoita kuti chigadzirwa chisanyanya kuoma uye chisanyanya kudonha, mushoma kwazvo unoita kuti pamusoro pacho pave "pakaoma", pave pakaoma kukwesha, kana kuti pave nemafuta.
d. Chigadzirwa Chemafirimu uye Resin Yekugara Nguva Yakareba
Mumaforomamu emhando yepamusoro-soro anopfekwa kwenguva refu, mapolymers anogadzira firimu anoshandiswa kugadzira network yakatetepa pamusoro peganda. Mumapoda akadzvanywa, firimu rinogona kubatanidzwa kuburikidza ne liquid binder kana specific resin powder. Muzvinwiwa/makirimu, firimu rinowanzo shandiswa zvakanyanya nekuti mushure mekunge solvent yapera, firimu rinova kiyi yekugara kwenguva refu.
e. Zvishandiso Zvinotsigira: Antioxidants uye Preservatives
Kunyange zvazvo mithunzi yemaziso ine hupfu hwakadzvanywa isina mvura yakawanda, ma antioxidants (semuenzaniso, tocopherols) achiri kushandiswa kudzivirira kurasika kwemafuta/ma esters. Zvinochengetedza zvinhu zvinonyanya kuwanikwa mumafuta ekirimu/mvura. Kugadzikana kwemavara kunotsigirwawo nekudzora pH (kana paine chikamu chemvura) uye kusarudzwa kwemavara anodzivirira oxidation.
4. Tekinoroji yekugadzira zvidimbu: Kurapa uye Kupararira
Imwe yenzira huru dzekushandisa mumvuri wemaziso kwenguva refu ndeyekugadzirisa pamusoro pemavara nemafuta anozadza. Mavara akafukidzwa ne silane kana silicone anowanzoita seaya:
- inodzivirira mvura ne sebum zvakanyanya,
- zviri nyore kusanganisa,
– inoderedza njodzi yekutsemuka kana mavara asina kujeka.
Pamusoro pezvo, nzira dzekugaya nekubatanidza ruvara dzinoita kuti ruvara ruve rwakaenzana. Kupararira kusina kunaka kunoita kuti ruvara rusawirirane pakati pemabhurugwa uye kunowedzera njodzi yekukwenya, sezvo mabhurugwa eruvara rweruvara achiungana zviri nyore mumaburi.
5. Danho rekugadzira reLong-Wear Pressed Eyeshadow
a. Kuyera uye Kusanganisa Upfu
Zvinhu zvakasanganiswa nehupfu zvakaita se talc/alternatives, mica, silica, pigments, uye fillers zvinoyerwa zvichienderana nefomura. Danho rekutanga rinowanzo kuve powder premix kuti ienzanise kugoverwa. Kusanganisa kunoitwa ne ribbon blender kana high-speed mixer, zvichienderana nehukuru hwekugadzirwa.
b. Kugadzira Mhinduro yeBinder
Chinosunga mvura chinogadzirwa chega. Kana wakisi iripo, inonyungudutswa patembiricha yakarongwa yozosanganiswa ne ester/silicone. Chinangwa ndechekugadzira chinosunga chakafanana uye chakasimba, sezvo kusiyana kudiki kunogona kukanganisa kuoma kwepani uye kushanda kwenguva refu.
c. Granulation kana Spray Binder muUpfu
Chinosungirirwa chinozowedzerwa muchikamu cheupfu muzvikamu. Maindasitiri anowanzo shandisa nzira dzinotevera:
- granulation yakanyorova zvishoma kuti igadzire "granules" dzakafanana dziri nyore kudzvanya,
– kana kuti chinopfapfaidza kuitira kuti chiparadzirwe zvakaenzana uye chisaite mapundu makuru.
Kubudirira kwedanho iri kunogona kuonekwa kubva pakuumbwa kwehupfu hwacho "hwakanyorova asi hwakaoma" (husina kunyorova), huri nyore kupwanya, uye husingapfunde zvakanyanya.
d. Kugayazve uye Kuongorora
Mushure mekupwanyika kwemusanganiswa, musanganiswa unogona kugayiwa zvakare kuti uparadze zvidimbu zvemusanganiswa wozoongororwa kuti uve nechokwadi chekuti zvidimbu zvemusanganiswa zvakafanana. Danho iri rakakosha kudzivirira kutsemuka pamusoro pepani uye kuve nechokwadi chekuti chigadzirwa chinotorwa zvakaenzana nebhurashi.
e. Kudzvanya (Kudzvanya) uye Kugadzirisa
Huremu hwacho hunozodzvanywa mupoto uchishandisa kudzvanywa kwakatarwa. Zvinotarisirwa zvinosanganisira kudzvanywa, nguva yekudzvanywa, uye dhizaini yemould. Mumafomula ekushanda kwenguva refu, kudzvanywa kwakakodzera kunobatsira:
- kuderedza migumisiro yemigumisiro,
- kuvandudza kunaka kwepani,
– inochengetedza mhedzisiro (ruvara runoramba rwuchionekwa kana rwukashandiswa).
Vamwe vagadziri vanoshandisa "nguva yekuzorora" kuitira kuti chibatiso chigadzikane uye chigadzirwa chisvike pakuoma kwakanyanya.
6. Kuongorora Kushanda Kwenguva Refu: Miedzo Inowanzoitwa
Kuti vasimbise zvirevo zvekusashanda kwenguva refu, vagadziri vanowanzoita musanganiswa webvunzo dzemurabhoritari uye bvunzo dzekusashanda (bvunzo dzepaneru), dzakadai se:
- bvunzo yekukwesha kana paine kuramba kukweshana,
- bvunzo yekudzivirira sebum kana yekudzivirira mafuta,
- Kuyedzwa kwemaawa 8-12 kwekupfeka pavanhu vane mhando dzakasiyana dzeganda remaziso,
- kuongorora kukwenya kweganda uchishandisa chiedza chakajairwa,
- bvunzo yekudonhedza uye bvunzo yekuomarara kwepani kuona kuti chigadzirwa hachipwanyike zviri nyore panguva yekugoverwa.
Pamusoro pezvo, kuongororwa kwemavara (colorimetry) kunogona kushandiswa kuyera kuti simba remavara rinoderera zvakadii mushure memaawa akati wandei ekushandiswa.
7. Zvitsva Zvitsva: Masisitimu Akasanganiswa uye "Anokiya"
Mafambiro matsva ndeekushandisa ma hybrid formulas: ma pressed powders anonzwa akareruka sehupfu asi ane "locking" effect yekirimu/mvura. Izvi zvinoitwa kuburikidza ne:
- musanganiswa wezvinonhuhwirira zvinoputika kuti zviite kuti chiedza chionekwe,
- resin/firimu inosara paganda kuti igare kwenguva refu,
- pigments dzakarapwa ne hydrophobic kudzivirira sebum,
- uye chivharo chine maburi chekugadzirisa mafuta.
Pamusoro pezvo, kurongedza kunoitawo basa guru: pani yakabatana zvakanaka, dhizaini yemukati inoderedza kudedera, uye kunaka kwekudzvanya nguva dzose kunoderedza njodzi yekutsemuka nekudonha kwemvura panguva yekutumira.
Penutup
Tekinoroji yemimvuri yemaziso inopfekwa kwenguva refu haisi yekusarudza pigments dzemhando yepamusoro chete, asiwo nezvekugadzira nemazvo uye maitiro ekugadzira. Chinokosha chiri mukubatana pakati pemimvuri yakapararira zvakanaka, ma binders akaenzana, ma filmer anoshanda, uye ma fillers anodzora sebum pasina kukanganisa nyaradzo. Nekugadzirisa kwakanyatsojeka kwezvimedu, granulation yakafanana, uye ma parameter ekudzvanya anodzorwa, mimvuri yemaziso inoita kuti ishande kwenguva refu: ruvara rwakasimba, kukwenya kushoma, uye kupedzisa kwakafanana zuva rese. Pakati pemakwikwi ezvizoro ari kuramba achiwedzera, hunyanzvi mumaitiro ekupfekwa kwenguva refu hucharamba huchichinja, huchipa zvigadzirwa zviri nyore, zvakachengeteka, uye zvakavimbika kuti zvisangane nezvinodiwa nevashandisi vakasiyana-siyana.
