Cov Txheej Txheem Ua Tshuaj Pleev Rau Cov Plaub Hau Qhuav
Cov plaub hau qhuav yog ib qho teeb meem plaub hau uas ntau tus neeg ntsib, ob qho tib si vim yog cov yam ntxwv ntawm caj ces thiab kev saib xyuas txhua hnub. Kev raug cua sov los ntawm cov cuab yeej styling, tshav ntuj, pa phem, xim, dawb, thiab kev siv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas hnyav dhau tuaj yeem ua rau cov plaub hau tsis muaj roj ntuj. Yog li ntawd, cov plaub hau zoo li tsis muaj zog, tawg yooj yim, frizzy, thiab nyuaj rau tswj. Hauv cov xwm txheej no, cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ua kev kho mob tom qab ntxuav plaub hau kom rov qab noo, ua kom cov plaub hau du, thiab txo qhov sib txhuam uas ua rau puas tsuaj. Tsab xov xwm no tham txog cov txheej txheem ntawm kev tsim cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau tshwj xeeb rau cov plaub hau qhuav, los ntawm lub tswv yim mis, cov khoom xyaw, cov theem tsim khoom, thiab kev tswj xyuas zoo.
1. Nkag siab txog qhov xav tau ntawm cov plaub hau qhuav
Ua ntej yuav tsim cov khoom siv saib xyuas plaub hau, thawj qhov uas yuav tsum nkag siab yog cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov plaub hau qhuav. Cov plaub hau qhuav feem ntau muaj cov cuticles qhib lossis puas lawm. Cov cuticle yog txheej sab nraud ntawm cov plaub hau, uas yuav tsum kaw kom nruj zoo li cov nplai. Yog tias cov nplai no raug tsa, dej tuaj yeem tawm tau yooj yim, thiab cov plaub hau poob dej noo. Yog li ntawd, cov tshuaj pleev rau cov plaub hau qhuav yuav tsum tsom mus rau peb lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb: ua kom noo noo (humectant), txheej / noj qab haus huv (emollient), thiab txo cov hluav taws xob static thiab frizz (cationic conditioner). Tsis tas li ntawd, cov tshuaj antioxidants lossis cov khoom xyaw tiv thaiv yog qhov xav tau los tiv thaiv cov plaub hau ntawm kev puas tsuaj ntxiv.
2. Lub tswv yim yooj yim ntawm cov mis tshuaj pleev ib ce
Feem ntau, cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau yog cov tshuaj emulsion ntawm cov dej thiab cov roj uas tau ruaj khov los ntawm cov tshuaj emulsifier. Rau cov plaub hau qhuav, cov mis no feem ntau muaj cov tshuaj emollients ntau dua thiab muaj cov khoom xyaw cationic conditioner kom ua rau cov plaub hau du thiab du. Cov khoom xyaw feem ntau hauv cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau rau cov plaub hau qhuav suav nrog:
1. Cov dej theem: dej deionized, hydrosol, lossis sib tov dej nrog cov khoom siv yaj hauv dej xws li glycerin.
2. Cov tshuaj ua kom noo: glycerin, propanediol, panthenol, betaine—pab nqus thiab khaws dej.
3. Cov tshuaj pleev kom mos/roj: roj txiv maj phaub, roj argan, roj jojoba, roj shea butter, cov tshuaj esters sib dua—pab ua kom mos thiab txo qhov ntxhib.
4. Cov tshuaj emulsifiers thiab cov tshuaj thickening: piv txwv li cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride lossis methosulfate (cov khoom xyaw cationic uas kuj muaj cov nyhuv conditioning).
5. Cov khoom xyaw uas muaj protein los yog cov khoom xyaw uas ua kom cov plaub hau muaj zog: cov keratin uas tau hydrolyzed, cov protein nplej, los yog cov amino acids los pab txo qhov brittleness.
6. Cov khoom xyaw ntxiv: ceramide, niacinamide (rau ntawm lub taub hau), aloe vera, lossis cov nroj tsuag sib xws.
7. Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv: tseem ceeb rau kev tiv thaiv cov kab mob me me, vim tias cov khoom siv dej yooj yim raug kuab paug.
8. pH regulator: lactic acid los yog citric acid kom tswj tau qhov pH zoo tagnrho (feem ntau me ntsis acidic).
9. Cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab cov xim pleev (xaiv tau): los txhim kho qhov kev paub hnav.
Ib daim tshuaj zoo yuav ua rau "qhov hnyav" thiab "qhov sib npaug." Cov plaub hau qhuav heev yuav nyiam cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau uas muaj roj ntau dua, tab sis cov plaub hau me me yuav yooj yim qhuav yog tias cov tshuaj hnyav dhau. Yog li ntawd, cov tshuaj yuav tsum tau ua kom haum rau tus neeg siv.
3. Kev npaj cov cuab yeej thiab cov qauv kev huv si
Hauv cov txheej txheem tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, kev huv yog qhov tseem ceeb. Cov khoom siv feem ntau siv suav nrog:
- Lub raj mis stainless hlau los yog lub tank sib tov
- Lub phaj kub lossis lub tshuab cua sov nrog kev tswj qhov kub
- Lub ntsuas kub
- Cov nplai precision
- Cov khoom siv sib xyaw ua ke los yog homogenizer rau cov emulsions
- Lub ntsuas pH
- Ntxuav lub spatula, lub stirrer thiab lub thawv cia khoom
Ua ntej tsim khoom, txhua yam cuab yeej yuav tsum tau ntxuav, ntxuav kom huv, thiab ziab. Cov Kev Cai Tsim Khoom Zoo (GMP) yog qhov tseem ceeb, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tias cov khoom no yog rau kev muag khoom. Kev ua qias tuaj ntawm cov kab mob me me tuaj yeem ua rau cov khoom puas sai, tsim cov ntxhiab tsw, lossis ua rau khaus tawv taub hau.
4. Theem tsim khoom: kev sib cais theem
Cov txheej txheem tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce feem ntau muab faib ua theem A (dej) thiab theem B (roj).
Theem A: theem dej
Nyob rau theem no, dej raug ntsuas raws li tus qauv, tom qab ntawd ntxiv cov khoom xyaw uas yaj tau hauv dej xws li glycerin, panthenol, lossis cov khoom xyaw uas ruaj khov rau thaum kub. Cov khoom sib tov raug cua sov txog li 70–75°C kom cov dej kub zoo ib yam li cov roj. Kev cua sov pab ua kom cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke thiab ua kom cov khoom xyaw sib xyaw zoo.
Theem B: roj theem
Hauv ib lub thawv sib cais, ntsuas cov roj, butter, cawv rog (xws li cetyl/stearyl alcohol), thiab cov tshuaj cationic emulsifier. Theem no kuj raug cua sov rau 70–75°C kom txog thaum txhua yam khoom yaj thiab sib xyaw ua ke.
Kev ua kom ob theem sov ntawm tib qhov kub yog qhov tseem ceeb heev kom tiv thaiv cov emulsion kom tsis txhob tawg. Yog tias ib theem txias dhau, cov roj tuaj yeem coagulate lossis cov emulsion tuaj yeem tsis ruaj khov.
5. Cov txheej txheem emulsification
Thaum ob theem kub txog tib yam, cov roj feem ntau maj mam nchuav rau hauv cov dej (lossis rov qab rau hauv, nyob ntawm tus qauv tsim), nrog rau kev sib xyaw tas li. Kev sib xyaw tuaj yeem ua tiav los ntawm kev siv lub tshuab sib tov lossis homogenizer ntawm qhov ceev nruab nrab mus rau siab.
Nyob rau theem no, yuav muaj cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau dawb uas pib tuab. Cov cawv rog thiab cov tshuaj cationic emulsifiers ua rau cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau zoo nkauj, ua rau nws tuab thiab yooj yim siv. Rau cov plaub hau qhuav, qhov viscosity zoo tagnrho yuav pab cov tshuaj lo rau ntawm cov plaub hau ntev dua, ua rau cov khoom xyaw pleev plaub hau ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws.
Thaum cov emulsion tau tsim lawm, txuas ntxiv do thaum maj mam txo qhov kub. Kev txias tas li pab tsim kom du, tsis muaj xuab zeb, thiab tsis tawg.
6. Ntxiv cov ntaub ntawv rhiab heev ntawm qhov kub qis
Thaum qhov kub ntawm cov emulsion poob qis mus txog li 40–45 ° C, ces cov khoom xyaw uas rhiab heev rau cua sov raug ntxiv, piv txwv li:
- Qee cov tshuaj preservatives (nyob ntawm hom)
- Tshuaj tsw qab
- Qee cov tshuaj ntsuab extracts
- Qee cov vitamins
- Protein hydrolysate uas ruaj khov dua ntawm qhov kub qis
Yog muab ntxiv rau qhov kub tsawg ces cov khoom xyaw yuav tsis tawg lossis yaj. Thaum muab tag nrho cov khoom xyaw ntxiv rau hauv lawm, ces do dua kom txog thaum sib xyaw zoo.
7. Kev kho pH thiab kev ntsuam xyuas cov qauv
Cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau rau cov plaub hau qhuav zoo tshaj plaws yuav tsum muaj pH uas muaj kua qaub me ntsis, feem ntau yog nyob rau hauv thaj tsam ntawm 4–5,5. pH uas muaj kua qaub pab kom cov plaub hau sib ze ua ke, ua rau cov plaub hau du thiab ci ntsa iab dua. Kho qhov pH los ntawm kev ntxiv me ntsis ntawm cov kua qaub lactic lossis citric thaum ntsuas nrog lub ntsuas pH.
Nyob rau theem no, tus tsim kuj tseem soj ntsuam:
- Thickness (nws puas yog nws qhuav dhau los yog tuab dhau)
- Kev sib kis tau yooj yim (yooj yim rau kis mus rau ntawm cov plaub hau)
- Xav tias tom qab ntxuav tas (nplua, mos, tsis nplaum)
- Tsw qab thiab xim
Yog tias tsim nyog, hloov kho cov mis rau pawg tom ntej. Kev hloov me me ntawm feem pua ntawm cov cawv rog lossis roj tuaj yeem hloov pauv qhov zoo nkauj.
8. Kev tswj xyuas zoo thiab kev ruaj khov
Cov khoom siv pleev kom zoo tsis yog tsuas yog siv tau zoo xwb tab sis kuj ruaj khov thaum khaws cia. Kev tswj xyuas zoo suav nrog:
1. Kev ntsuas qhov kub thiab txias: khaws cia rau ntawm qhov kub siab thiab qis sib hloov kom pom tias cov emulsion puas tawg.
2. Kev sim centrifugation (yog tias muaj): ua kom muaj peev xwm sib cais theem sai dua.
3. Kev kuaj kab mob me me: kom paub tseeb tias cov tshuaj tiv thaiv ua haujlwm, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau cov khoom lag luam.
4. Kev sim sib xws ntawm cov khoom ntim: qee cov khoom xyaw nquag lossis roj tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam nrog qee hom yas.
5. Kev soj ntsuam txog lub cev: kev hloov pauv ntawm ntxhiab tsw, xim, lossis cov qauv tom qab ob peb lub lis piam.
Rau cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau qhuav, kev ruaj khov kuj tseem ceeb heev kom cov khoom xyaw emollient tseem sib npaug zos, tsis txhob poob, thiab tsis txhob ntws dhau lossis tuab dhau.
9. Ntim thiab khaws cia
Thaum cov tshuaj pleev kom zoo lawm, muab cov tshuaj no tso rau hauv lub thawv uas tau ntxuav kom huv, xws li lub raj mis twj tso kua mis, lub raj mis, lossis lub thawv. Lub thawv ntim khoom yuav tsum tsis txhob muaj dej nkag thiab tsis txhob muaj kuab paug los ntawm tes. Lub raj mis twj tso kua mis lossis lub raj mis feem ntau huv dua li cov thawv qhib.
Khaws cia rau qhov chaw txias, kom deb ntawm tshav ntuj ncaj qha. Daim ntawv lo yuav tsum muaj hnub tsim khoom, tus lej ua khoom, daim ntawv teev cov khoom xyaw, thiab cov lus qhia siv.
10. Yuav siv nws li cas rau cov plaub hau qhuav
Feem ntau cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau rau cov plaub hau qhuav siv tom qab ntxuav plaub hau tas. Nias cov plaub hau kom tshem tawm cov dej ntau dhau, tom qab ntawd siv cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau txij nruab nrab mus rau qhov kawg. Cia nws rau 2-5 feeb kom cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau nkag mus rau hauv cov plaub hau, tom qab ntawd yaug kom huv si. Rau cov plaub hau qhuav heev, siv cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau nplua nuj dua lossis ntxiv cov ntaub npog plaub hau txhua lub lim tiam.
Kev kaw
Cov txheej txheem ntawm kev tsim cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau rau cov plaub hau qhuav yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev sib npaug ntawm kev tshawb fawb ntawm cov emulsions nrog rau cov kev xav tau ntawm tus neeg siv. Txij li kev xaiv cov humectants thiab emollients mus rau cov neeg sawv cev cationic conditioning, txhua yam khoom ua lub luag haujlwm hauv kev rov qab noo thiab mos rau cov plaub hau. Cov kauj ruam tsim khoom - ob theem cua sov, emulsification, tswj kev txias, ntxiv cov khoom xyaw rhiab heev ntawm qhov kub qis, thiab kev hloov kho pH - yog qhov tseem ceeb rau kev tsim cov khoom ruaj khov, muaj kev nyab xeeb, thiab ua haujlwm tau zoo. Nrog kev tswj hwm zoo, cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau tsis yog tsuas yog ib qho kev ntxiv rau tshuaj zawv plaub hau xwb, tab sis yog ib qho kev daws teeb meem tseem ceeb rau kev rov qab ua kom cov plaub hau du, ci ntsa iab, thiab muaj zog dua.
Yog tias koj xav tau, kuv kuj tuaj yeem ua ib qho piv txwv yooj yim (feem pua ntawm cov khoom xyaw) rau cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau qhuav (hom hauv tsev lossis hom me me nrog cov qauv kho kom zoo nkauj).
